The Beauty & Personal Care Brand Builder Series

The Beauty & Personal Care Brand Builder Series

Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum | Manufacturing and Formulation Insights

This page provides an ingredient-level review of Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum by Dermalogica. Below you’ll find the publicly available ingredient list, a dynamic ingredient breakdown linked to the FormuNova ingredient database, and a formula structure overview intended for cosmetic founders, product developers, and brand teams researching competitor product architecture in modern eye serums and related Beauty & Personal Care categories. This page is a formulation and manufacturing review and does not imply or state any association between FormuNova and Dermalogica.

Full Ingredient List

Water/Aqua/Eau, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, C15-19 Alkane, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Sodium PCA, Trehalose, Poria Cocos Polysaccharide, Papain, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Terminalia Arjuna Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosterols, Algin, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Phytosteryl Oleate, Tocopherol, Serine, Oleic Acid, Inositol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Betaine, Carrageenan, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Methylpropanediol, Proline, Xylitol, Calcium Gluconate, Pantolactone, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate-13, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Sorbate, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol

Formulation Deep Dive

Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum is formulated as a high-performance brightening and restorative eye treatment designed to address hyperpigmentation and fine lines in the delicate periorbital region. The carrier system utilizes a sophisticated humectant-rich base of water, butylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin, balanced with C15-19 alkane and Salvia Hispanica (Chia) seed oil to ensure rapid penetration without occlusive heaviness. The active performance is driven by a synergistic vitamin C complex featuring Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate for stable antioxidant delivery, paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to stimulate collagen synthesis and Terminalia Arjuna extract to improve microcirculation and reduce under-eye puffiness. Additionally, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp (Snow Mushroom) extract and Sodium Hyaluronate provide multi-level hydration and film-forming benefits. The formula is stabilized via a crosslinked polymer network of Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Polyacrylate-13, and is preserved through a clean-label system including Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, and Phenoxyethanol.

Formula Structure Overview

This formula has a 45% match with ingredients from our research database. Among the matched ingredients, the main functional themes identified are categorized as barrier support, hydrator, moisturizer, and conditioner ingredients.

Reviewed Ingredient Coverage
45%
Matched Ingredients
25

Ingredient Analysis

About our ratings
Water GREAT
Purified water serves as the primary, high-quality solvent in most cosmetics.
Solvent
Butylene Glycol GOOD
To hydrate and condition skin and hair, enhance the absorption of active ingredients, and improve product texture and stability.
Hydrator Moisturizer Emollient Texture Enhancer Conditioner Solvent Preservative
Propanediol GREAT
Improve hydration, solubilize actives, enhance texture and absorption, support barrier function.
Hydrator Emollient Barrier Support Solvent
Glycerin GREAT
To attract and retain moisture in the skin and hair, enhancing hydration and improving barrier function.
Hydrator Moisturizer Emollient Texture Enhancer Conditioner Soother Barrier Support Anti-Aging Agent Solvent
C15-19 Alkane NOT RATED
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil NOT RATED
Sodium PCA GREAT
Sodium PCA provides intense hydration, supports skin and scalp barrier function, and conditions hair to enhance manageability.
Hydrator Moisturizer Conditioner Anti-Frizz Agent Barrier Support Anti-Aging Agent
Trehalose GREAT
To deliver deep, sustained hydration and barrier fortification while providing antioxidant protection and formulation stability — ensuring skin and hair remain supple, resilient, and balanced.
Hydrator Moisturizer Texture Enhancer Antioxidant Soother Microbiome Balance Agent Barrier Support
Poria Cocos Polysaccharide NOT RATED
Papain FAIR
Provide gentle enzymatic exfoliation, soothe and brighten the skin, and condition hair while reducing static.
Hydrator Conditioner Exfoliant Soother Tone Evener
Dunaliella Salina Extract NOT RATED
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate NOT RATED
Terminalia Arjuna Extract NOT RATED
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract NOT RATED
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate NOT RATED
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 GREAT
Stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes to improve skin firmness and reduce signs of aging.
Strengthener Soother Anti-Inflammatory Agent Barrier Support Tone Evener Anti-Aging Agent
Hyaluronic Acid GREAT
To provide intense hydration, plump the skin, reinforce the skin’s barrier, and diminish signs of aging.
Hydrator Moisturizer Barrier Support Anti-Aging Agent
Phytosterols NOT RATED
Sodium Alginate GOOD
To enhance product texture, stabilize emulsions, and provide moisturizing and soothing effects to skin and hair.
Hydrator Texture Enhancer Conditioner Soother Barrier Support Emulsifier
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil NOT RATED
Phytosteryl Oleate NOT RATED
Tocopherol (Vitamin E) GREAT
To provide antioxidant protection, moisturize and condition the skin and hair, support the skin’s barrier function, soothe irritation, and protect against environmental damage.
Moisturizer Emollient Conditioner Antioxidant Soother Barrier Support Anti-Aging Agent
Serine GOOD
Provide NMF-aligned, water-binding and conditioning benefits to enhance skin comfort and hair manageability without heaviness.
Hydrator Conditioner Anti-Frizz Agent Strengthener Microbiome Balance Agent Barrier Support
Oleic Acid NOT RATED
Inositol NOT RATED
Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil GREAT
To reinforce skin barrier function, deliver lightweight hydration, and protect against oxidative stress—while improving texture and ease of application.
Moisturizer Emollient Texture Enhancer Antioxidant Soother Barrier Support
Betaine NOT RATED
Carrageenan Gum GOOD
To thicken and stabilize emulsions, form flexible films that lock in moisture, and provide viscosity and slip to skin‑care and hair‑care formulations.
Hydrator Moisturizer Emollient Texture Enhancer Conditioner Antioxidant Anti-Inflammatory Agent Barrier Support Emulsifier
Panthenol GREAT
To hydrate and condition skin and hair, enhance barrier function, and provide anti-inflammatory benefits.
Hydrator Moisturizer Emollient Conditioner Strengthener Soother Anti-Inflammatory Agent Barrier Support Emulsifier
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate NOT RATED
Methylpropanediol NOT RATED
Proline NOT RATED
Xylitol GOOD
Increase water content in the stratum corneum/scalp and support barrier integrity through humectancy and NMF-linked pathways.
Hydrator Moisturizer Soother Anti-Inflammatory Agent Microbiome Balance Agent Barrier Support
Calcium Gluconate NOT RATED
Pantolactone NOT RATED
Soy Lecithin GREAT
To stabilize emulsions, improve texture, support barrier integrity, boost hydration, and deliver actives effectively into skin and hair layers.
Moisturizer Emollient Texture Enhancer Conditioner Anti-Frizz Agent Antioxidant Barrier Support Emulsifier
Sclerothix™ GREAT
To thicken aqueous systems, stabilize emulsions, suspend insoluble particles, and improve the sensory profile of natural formulations.
Hydrator Texture Enhancer Anti-Frizz Agent Volume Control Agent Microbiome Balance Agent
Pentylene Glycol GREAT
To elevate cosmetic formulations by delivering efficient hydration, actives solubilization, enhanced texture, and supplemental antimicrobial support—thereby improving both performance and sensory quality.
Hydrator Moisturizer Texture Enhancer Conditioner Soother Barrier Support Solvent Preservative
Aminomethyl Propanol NOT RATED
Caprylyl Glycol GREAT
Enhances hydration, texture, and skin/hair conditioning while improving emulsion stability.
Hydrator Moisturizer Emollient Texture Enhancer Conditioner Anti-Frizz Agent Microbiome Balance Agent Barrier Support Emulsifier
Polyacrylate-13 NOT RATED
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer GOOD
To thicken and stabilize skincare and haircare formulations while imparting a silky, spreadable feel.
Texture Enhancer Emulsifier
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate GOOD
Chelates metal ions to stabilize formulations, reduce water hardness and enhance the efficacy of preservatives.
Texture Enhancer Cleansing Agent Barrier Support Preservative Chelating Agent
Polyisobutene NOT RATED
Ethylhexylglycerin NOT RATED
Sodium Benzoate NOT RATED
Citric Acid NOT RATED
Gluconolactone NOT RATED
Polysorbate 20 GOOD
To stabilise oil-in-water or water-in-oil mixtures, reduce interfacial tension, solubilise lipophilic actives, and improve formulation texture and performance in skin and hair care systems.
Texture Enhancer Cleansing Agent Emulsifier Solvent
Potassium Sorbate NOT RATED
Carbomer GOOD
High-efficiency gel former and viscosity builder that stabilizes emulsions and suspends actives/pigments.
Texture Enhancer Cleansing Agent Emulsifier
Anhydroxylitol GOOD
Increase water content of skin or hair fibers and support epidermal barrier metrics when used alone or within the XAX (xylitylglucoside + anhydroxylitol + xylitol) system.
Hydrator Moisturizer Texture Enhancer Conditioner Barrier Support
2-Hexanediol NOT RATED
Sodium Hydroxide NOT RATED
Limonene NOT RATED
Phenoxyethanol NOT RATED
The information provided in this review is based on internal research and publicly available sources. It is intended for general informational purposes only and does not constitute medical, legal, or regulatory advice. We do not guarantee the accuracy or completeness of this information. Users are encouraged to conduct their own research and consult appropriate professionals before making decisions based on this information.

The manufacturing partners for Dermalogica are not publicly disclosed. Many brands work with multiple contract manufacturers across different regions depending on production volume, product type, and regulatory requirements.

Exact sales numbers for Dermalogica are not publicly disclosed.

Dermalogica has successfully captured market share by focusing on a successful balance of marketing and formulation.

Replicating that success requires more than just copying a formula, it requires identifying a marketing strategy that is unique to your brand’s audience, associated with a great product offering.

At FormuNova, we specialize in helping brands move past imitation to create high-performance product offerings with potential to outperform the current market leaders. Let’s discuss your launch strategy.

Planning your next product launch?

Product Development, Private Label and Custom Formulation

Skin care concept, cosmetic products round drops texture samples such as moisturizer, serum and oil

Researching successful Eye Serums for your next product launch?

This page provides an independent ingredient analysis of publicly available cosmetic products for research purposes. All trademarks, brand names, and product names are the property of their respective owners. FormuNova does not claim to be affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by the brands mentioned on this page. Product images, when shown, are used solely for identification and commentary under fair use principles.

Minimal skincare foam cream and serum drop texture

FormuNova is a full-service Beauty & Personal Care formulation and contract manufacturing partner.

Let’s talk about your next product launch.

Made in USA
Made in USA
Macro close-up of clear cosmetic serum or essence with visible air bubbles. Ideal for beauty branding, cosmetic ads, skincare ingredient design, or clean and minimal product presentations.