Formulation Deep Dive
Dermalogica’s Biolumin-C Vitamin C Eye Serum is formulated as a high-performance brightening and restorative eye treatment designed to address hyperpigmentation and fine lines in the delicate periorbital region. The carrier system utilizes a sophisticated humectant-rich base of water, butylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin, balanced with C15-19 alkane and Salvia Hispanica (Chia) seed oil to ensure rapid penetration without occlusive heaviness. The active performance is driven by a synergistic vitamin C complex featuring Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate for stable antioxidant delivery, paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to stimulate collagen synthesis and Terminalia Arjuna extract to improve microcirculation and reduce under-eye puffiness. Additionally, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp (Snow Mushroom) extract and Sodium Hyaluronate provide multi-level hydration and film-forming benefits. The formula is stabilized via a crosslinked polymer network of Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Polyacrylate-13, and is preserved through a clean-label system including Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, and Phenoxyethanol.
Formula Structure Overview
This formula has a 78% match with ingredients from our research database. Among the matched ingredients, the main functional themes identified are categorized as hydrator, barrier support, conditioner, and soother ingredients.
Reviewed Ingredient Coverage
78%
Water
GREAT
Purified water serves as the primary, high-quality solvent in most cosmetics.
Solvent
Butylene Glycol
GOOD
To hydrate and condition skin and hair, enhance the absorption of active ingredients, and improve product texture and stability.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Emollient
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Solvent
Preservative
Propanediol
GREAT
Improve hydration, solubilize actives, enhance texture and absorption, support barrier function.
Hydrator
Emollient
Barrier Support
Solvent
Glycerin
GREAT
To attract and retain moisture in the skin and hair, enhancing hydration and improving barrier function.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Emollient
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Soother
Barrier Support
Anti-Aging Agent
Solvent
Seplife Nude
GOOD
To stabilize, thicken, and texturize cosmetic emulsions while imparting a light, natural skin feel and finish.
Texture Enhancer
Emulsifier
Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil
NOT RATED
Sodium PCA
GREAT
Sodium PCA provides intense hydration, supports skin and scalp barrier function, and conditions hair to enhance manageability.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Conditioner
Anti-Frizz Agent
Barrier Support
Anti-Aging Agent
Trehalose
GREAT
To deliver deep, sustained hydration and barrier fortification while providing antioxidant protection and formulation stability — ensuring skin and hair remain supple, resilient, and balanced.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Texture Enhancer
Antioxidant
Soother
Microbiome Balance Agent
Barrier Support
Poria Cocos Polysaccharide
NOT RATED
Papain
FAIR
Provide gentle enzymatic exfoliation, soothe and brighten the skin, and condition hair while reducing static.
Hydrator
Conditioner
Exfoliant
Soother
Tone Evener
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
NOT RATED
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
NOT RATED
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
GREAT
Stimulates collagen synthesis and inhibits collagen-degrading enzymes to improve skin firmness and reduce signs of aging.
Strengthener
Soother
Anti-Inflammatory Agent
Barrier Support
Tone Evener
Anti-Aging Agent
Sodium Hyaluronate
GREAT
To attract and retain moisture within skin and hair-care formulations, improve product texture and spread, fortify barrier integrity and deliver a smoothing, plumping effect.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Soother
Barrier Support
Anti-Aging Agent
Phytosterols
GOOD
Barrier-identical plant sterols used to support the moisture barrier and soothe the look of skin.
Barrier Support
Soother
Sodium Alginate
GOOD
To enhance product texture, stabilize emulsions, and provide moisturizing and soothing effects to skin and hair.
Hydrator
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Soother
Barrier Support
Emulsifier
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil
NOT RATED
Phytosteryl Oleate
NOT RATED
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
GREAT
To provide antioxidant protection, moisturize and condition the skin and hair, support the skin’s barrier function, soothe irritation, and protect against environmental damage.
Moisturizer
Emollient
Conditioner
Antioxidant
Soother
Barrier Support
Anti-Aging Agent
Serine
GOOD
Provide NMF-aligned, water-binding and conditioning benefits to enhance skin comfort and hair manageability without heaviness.
Hydrator
Conditioner
Anti-Frizz Agent
Strengthener
Microbiome Balance Agent
Barrier Support
Oleic Acid
GOOD
A monounsaturated (omega-9) fatty acid used as a nourishing emollient and skin-conditioning lipid.
Emollient
Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
GREAT
To reinforce skin barrier function, deliver lightweight hydration, and protect against oxidative stress—while improving texture and ease of application.
Moisturizer
Emollient
Texture Enhancer
Antioxidant
Soother
Barrier Support
Betaine
GOOD
A naturally-derived osmolyte humectant that hydrates, soothes and improves the mildness of cleansers.
Hydrator
Soother
Carrageenan Gum
GOOD
To thicken and stabilize emulsions, form flexible films that lock in moisture, and provide viscosity and slip to skin‑care and hair‑care formulations.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Emollient
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Antioxidant
Anti-Inflammatory Agent
Barrier Support
Emulsifier
Panthenol
GREAT
To hydrate and condition skin and hair, enhance barrier function, and provide anti-inflammatory benefits.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Emollient
Conditioner
Strengthener
Soother
Anti-Inflammatory Agent
Barrier Support
Emulsifier
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
GREAT
A purified licorice active (glycyrrhizic-acid salt) used to calm the look of redness and irritation and support an even, comfortable complexion.
Soother
Anti-Inflammatory Agent
Tone Evener
Methylpropanediol
GOOD
A light glycol humectant, solvent and penetration aid that also boosts preservative efficiency.
Hydrator
Solvent
Proline
GOOD
A free amino acid and component of the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor, used as a humectant and skin-conditioning agent to support moisture and softness.
Hydrator
Conditioner
Xylitol
GOOD
Increase water content in the stratum corneum/scalp and support barrier integrity through humectancy and NMF-linked pathways.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Soother
Anti-Inflammatory Agent
Microbiome Balance Agent
Barrier Support
Calcium Gluconate
GOOD
A water-soluble calcium salt used for skin conditioning, chelation (formula stability) and mild humectancy — a gentle cosmetic source of calcium.
Chelating Agent
Hydrator
Soy Lecithin
GREAT
To stabilize emulsions, improve texture, support barrier integrity, boost hydration, and deliver actives effectively into skin and hair layers.
Moisturizer
Emollient
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Anti-Frizz Agent
Antioxidant
Barrier Support
Emulsifier
Xanthan Gum
GOOD
Improves formula viscosity and stability, enhances spreadability, supports skin hydration by forming a moisture-retaining film, and smooths hair appearance.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Soother
Barrier Support
Emulsifier
Pentylene Glycol
GREAT
To elevate cosmetic formulations by delivering efficient hydration, actives solubilization, enhanced texture, and supplemental antimicrobial support—thereby improving both performance and sensory quality.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Soother
Barrier Support
Solvent
Preservative
Aminomethyl Propanol
GOOD
A mild organic base used as a pH adjuster, buffer and carbomer neutralizer.
Caprylyl Glycol
GREAT
Enhances hydration, texture, and skin/hair conditioning while improving emulsion stability.
Hydrator
Moisturizer
Emollient
Texture Enhancer
Conditioner
Anti-Frizz Agent
Microbiome Balance Agent
Barrier Support
Emulsifier
Polyacrylate-13
GOOD
A synthetic rheology modifier that thickens, gels and stabilizes emulsions with a non-tacky feel.
Texture Enhancer
Emulsifier
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
GOOD
To thicken and stabilize skincare and haircare formulations while imparting a silky, spreadable feel.
Texture Enhancer
Emulsifier
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
GOOD
Chelates metal ions to stabilize formulations, reduce water hardness and enhance the efficacy of preservatives.
Texture Enhancer
Cleansing Agent
Barrier Support
Preservative
Chelating Agent
Ethylhexylglycerin
GOOD
A multifunctional additive that boosts preservative efficacy, provides deodorant activity, and conditions skin with a light, non-greasy feel.
Preservative
Microbiome Balance Agent
Sodium Benzoate
GOOD
Functions as a preservative (antimicrobial), protecting water-containing formulations from yeast, mold, and bacterial spoilage. Its activity is pH-dependent and strongest in acidic systems (optimal below roughly pH 5), so it is used in low-pH products and frequently paired with potassium sorbate for broader, more robust preservation.
Preservative
Citric Acid
GOOD
Acts mainly as a pH adjuster and buffer and as a chelating agent that protects formula stability and preservation; at higher leave-on levels it also serves as a mild exfoliating AHA.
Chelating Agent
Exfoliant
Gluconolactone
GOOD
A gentle polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that provides mild exfoliation, humectant hydration, and antioxidant / chelating support, and reinforces eco-preservative systems.
Exfoliant
Hydrator
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 20
GOOD
To stabilise oil-in-water or water-in-oil mixtures, reduce interfacial tension, solubilise lipophilic actives, and improve formulation texture and performance in skin and hair care systems.
Texture Enhancer
Cleansing Agent
Emulsifier
Solvent
Potassium Sorbate
GOOD
Functions as a preservative (antimicrobial), protecting water-containing formulations primarily against yeasts and molds, with weaker activity against bacteria. Its activity is pH-dependent and strongest in acidic systems (effective below roughly pH 6, optimal near pH 4.4), so it is used in low-pH products and is commonly paired with a second preservative such as sodium benzoate for broad-spectrum coverage.
Preservative
Carbomer
GOOD
High-efficiency gel former and viscosity builder that stabilizes emulsions and suspends actives/pigments.
Texture Enhancer
Cleansing Agent
Emulsifier
1,2-Hexanediol
GOOD
A multifunctional glycol used as a humectant and preservative booster with mild antimicrobial activity.
Hydrator
Preservative
Sodium Hydroxide
GOOD
A strong alkali used at trace levels as a pH adjuster — to neutralize acids, set a formula’s target pH and activate gelling agents such as carbomer.
Limonene
CAUTION
A naturally-occurring citrus terpene fragrance component, listed individually as an EU-declared allergen when present above regulatory thresholds.
Phenoxyethanol
GOOD
A broad-spectrum cosmetic preservative that protects water-containing formulas against bacteria, yeast and mold.
Preservative
The information provided in this review is based on internal research and publicly available sources. It is intended for general informational purposes only and does not constitute medical, legal, or regulatory advice. We do not guarantee the accuracy or completeness of this information. Users are encouraged to conduct their own research and consult appropriate professionals before making decisions based on this information.
