Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

The Beauty & Personal Care Brand Builder Series

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

The Beauty & Personal Care Brand Builder Series

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate is a non-ionic, PEG-free emulsifier and co-emulsifier produced by esterifying polyglycerin-3 with oleic acid. Owing to its amphiphilic structure and relatively low hydrophilic–lipophilic balance (HLB), it is particularly effective in water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, microemulsions, and oil-rich systems. In skincare formulations, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate contributes to emulsion stability, improved spreadability, and enhanced sensory softness, while maintaining excellent compatibility with the stratum corneum. Its fatty-acid backbone (oleate) provides a mild emollient effect and supports lipid continuity at the skin surface, which can help reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) when used within structured lipid systems.

In haircare, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate is commonly used as a secondary emulsifier or solubilizing agent in conditioners, cleansing oils, and creamy shampoos. It facilitates the uniform distribution of oils, esters, and lipophilic actives across the hair fiber and scalp, improving rinse behavior and product consistency. Although it does not directly modify hair biology, its ability to stabilize oil-rich phases enhances the performance of conditioning agents and contributes to smoother application, reduced friction, and improved combability. Its mildness profile makes it especially suitable for sulfate-free, low-irritation haircare systems.

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GOOD

Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Emulsifier and Solvent

To stabilize oil-rich or water-in-oil emulsions while improving texture, spreadability, and formulation mildness.

Used in facial creams, cleansing oils, sunscreens, body lotions, conditioners, hair masks, creamy shampoos, and other oil-rich cosmetic emulsions.

Suitable for formulations designed for all skin and hair types, including sensitive skin or scalp, and products positioned as PEG-free or mild.

Polyglycerin-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl Oleate (C3).

Safety Analysis

Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate is considered safe for topical cosmetic use and is approved for both leave-on and rinse-off products. Toxicological evaluations indicate low irritation and sensitization potential, and its non-ionic nature minimizes interaction with skin proteins and barrier lipids. Unlike ethoxylated surfactants, it does not present concerns related to residual ethylene oxide or 1,4-dioxane. The ingredient is non-phototoxic, non-comedogenic when properly formulated, and well suited for frequent-use cosmetic products, including those intended for sensitive skin.

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