Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (SSG) is an anionic, amino-acid–based emulsifier obtained by coupling L-glutamic acid with stearic acid and neutralizing to the sodium salt. In skin care, SSG is leveraged as a primary O/W emulsifier or co-emulsifier to build stable, fine-droplet emulsions with elegant, low-tack sensorials. Its glutamate head group provides water affinity while the C18 stearoyl tail anchors in the oil phase, enabling lamellar gel structures that enhance viscosity, droplet stability, and actives compatibility (including electrolyte-rich phases and water-soluble UV filters). Because it operates close to skin-relevant pH and tolerates salts, SSG is a preferred choice in face creams, sunscreens, baby care, and minimalist barrier moisturizers where consistency over shelf life and low irritation potential are priorities.
In hair and scalp formats, SSG performs two roles: (1) emulsification of rich oil phases in masks and leave-ins to improve spread and deposition, and (2) mild surfactant/conditioning support that helps maintain fiber manageability without the harshness associated with classical sulfates. It is compatible with a wide array of emollients (vegetable oils, esters, silicones) and humectants (glycerin, proteins), allowing formulators to tune wet/dry combing outcomes and after-feel. Brands aiming for EO-free, naturally derived systems frequently combine SSG with fatty alcohols (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) or nonionic emulsifiers to amplify lamellar structure, cushion, and pick-up while preserving clarity in electrolyte-rich gels.

Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GREAT
Type of Ingredient:
Moisturizer, Texture Enhancer, Conditioner, Cleansing Agent and Emulsifier
Intended Function:
Create fine, salt-tolerant O/W emulsions with soft sensory and long-term physical stability for skin and hair products.
Common Applications:
Facial moisturizers, sunscreens, baby lotions, body creams, makeup bases; hair masks, leave-ins, and rich conditioning treatments.
Target Audience:
Brands seeking EO-free, naturally derived emulsification with good electrolyte tolerance and gentle cleansing/conditioning aesthetics.
Also Known As:
Sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, CAS: 38517-23-6 / 79811-24-8, EC: 253-980-9.
Private Label Formulas
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Safety Analysis
Regulatory & panel perspective. SSG is listed in major regulatory databases with core functions emulsifying, skin conditioning, hair conditioning, cleansing, and surfactant. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (CIR) has a published report covering this ingredient within the amino-acid-derived alkyl amide/glutamate family and indicates it is safe as used in current cosmetic practice.
Formulation tolerance. Supplier and manufacturer portals highlight good compatibility with electrolytes (including water-soluble UV filters) and robustness across skin-relevant pH — useful in sunscreens, actives-heavy serums, and baby care.
Biodegradability & origin. Commercial grades are typically derived from plant fatty acids and L-glutamic acid, and are described as highly biodegradable; many offerings meet COSMOS/ECOCERT/Natrue natural-origin criteria (confirm certification with your chosen supplier).
Irritation potential. As with most surfactants/emulsifiers, isolate irritation risk through whole-formula design (humectant/emollient balance, fragrance level, preservative choice) and verify via HRIPT/patch testing. Case-level reports suggest low incidence when used within recommended levels.

References
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