Hydrolyzed Keratin is a mixture of low- to medium-molecular-weight peptides produced by controlled hydrolysis of keratin (commonly from wool). As a film-former, humectant, and skin-conditioning agent, it integrates easily into the aqueous phase of emulsions and gels, depositing a breathable peptide network that helps retain water on the stratum corneum and refines skin feel. In leave-on skincare, this peptide film can improve perceived smoothness and comfort; early clinical work also suggests that keratin hydrolysates incorporated into topical bases can increase skin hydration and support barrier measurements versus vehicle controls. Because the peptides are amphiphilic, they can stabilize interfaces modestly and cooperate with primary emulsifiers to enhance product texture without heavy occlusion.
In haircare, hydrolyzed keratin is prized for substantivity and mechanical support on damaged fibers. Peptides adsorb to the cuticle, help reduce static/flyaways (antistatic function), and—depending on molecular weight—either plate out on the surface to smooth and protect or partially penetrate into the cortex to aid flexibility. Multiple studies indicate that higher-MW fractions excel at film-forming “repair aesthetics,” whereas lower-MW peptides may influence volume and internal feel; microscopy and fluorescence assays corroborate deposition and limited penetration. Practically, this translates to improved wet/dry combability, reduced breakage under stress, and better style retention when hydrolyzed keratin is paired with cationic polymers, oils/esters, and heat/UV-care claims in shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, masks, and leave-ins.

Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GOOD
Type of Ingredient:
Hydrator, Texture Enhancer, Conditioner, Anti-Frizz Agent, Strengthener and Barrier Support
Intended Function:
Deposit keratin-derived peptides that form a substantive, breathable film to improve moisture retention, combability, and fiber resilience.
Common Applications:
Shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, masks, leave-ins, blow-dry/heat-care primers; hydrating lotions/creams, hand care, nail serums.
Target Audience:
Damaged, porous, color-treated, or textured hair; dry/rough skin seeking smoother feel and light, non-occlusive hydration.
Also Known As:
Keratin Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Wool Keratin, CAS 69430-36-0.
Private Label Formulas
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Safety Analysis
Hydrolyzed keratin and related keratin-derived ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics under current categories and concentrations, with primary functions listed as hair/skin conditioning, humectant, film-forming, and antistatic. Supply-chain considerations are important: reputable cosmetic grades are sourced from non-human keratin (e.g., wool) and processed under specifications that minimize impurities. In the EU, the use of human cells/tissues in cosmetics is prohibited; thus, human-derived keratin or human-hair hydrolysates are not permitted. As with all peptide hydrolysates, validate preservative efficacy at the finished-product level (the ingredient is not a preservative), and select peptide MW ranges intentionally: higher-MW for protective film deposition; lower-MW for internal feel/volume — then substantiate with combing, breakage, and imaging endpoints.

References
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