Pullulan is a water-soluble polysaccharide produced via fermentation of starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. In skincare formulations, it functions as an excellent film-former and binder, delivering instant skin-tightening and smoothing effects by forming a thin, elastic layer that adheres to the epidermis. This barrier acts to retain moisture, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which contributes to a plumper and more hydrated appearance over time. Additionally, Pullulan exhibits antioxidant properties, helping to neutralize free radicals and preserve skin vitality.
In haircare, Pullulan offers a natural, biodegradable alternative to synthetic polymers, imparting a silicone-like smoothness and shine to hair shafts while enhancing product texture and sensory performance. Its adhesive and low-viscosity characteristics make it a suitable film former in leave-in conditioners and styling products, helping to smooth frizz and maintain manageability without weighing down hair.
Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GREAT
Type of Ingredient:
Hydrator, Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Barrier Support and Anti-Aging Agent
Intended Function:
Formulate with Pullulan to create a smooth, pliable film that tightens and hydrates the skin, improves texture, and enhances delivery of actives, while also imparting shine and smoothness to hair.
Common Applications:
Used in serums, primers, masks, moisturizers, hydrogel films, peel-off products, and hair and scalp leave-in formulations — especially where a refined texture, moisture lock, and light lifting are desired.
Target Audience:
Brands developing anti-aging, firming, and high-performance skincare targeting dehydrated, mature, or dull skin; and those seeking clean, plant-derived polymers for smooth, shine-enhancing haircare.
Also Known As:
Fungal polysaccharide (biopolymer from Aureobasidium pullulans).
Safety Analysis
Pullulan is non-toxic, non-comedogenic, vegan, biodegradable, and generally well tolerated on skin. The EWG rates its hazard as low, with minimal concerns for cancer, allergy, or toxicity. Its film-forming trait delivers a subtle, mechanical tightening and visible lift without irritation, suited for sensitive skin types when used appropriately. Moreover, its antioxidant capabilities help protect against environmental stressors, while its film-forming nature enhances penetration and persistence of co-formulated actives. Finally, it is recognized as GRAS by the U.S. FDA and used in food and pharma applications — underscoring its safety and versatility.
References
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