Polysorbate 80 is a nonionic surfactant and emulsifier widely utilized in skincare and haircare formulations due to its strong solubilizing and dispersing capabilities. Derived from the esterification of sorbitol with oleic acid and ethylene oxide, it plays a pivotal role in stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions by reducing surface tension between hydrophilic and lipophilic phases. In skincare, Polysorbate 80 helps deliver active ingredients more uniformly while improving the texture and spreadability of creams, serums, and lotions. It is especially beneficial for formulations containing botanical oils or oil-based actives, ensuring that these components remain evenly distributed without separation. Additionally, it contributes to the mild cleansing properties of micellar waters and facial cleansers.
In haircare applications, Polysorbate 80 is often used in conditioners, scalp treatments, and cleansing products to help emulsify sebum, dirt, and product buildup without aggressive stripping. Its emulsifying action allows for gentler surfactant systems, improving product performance in formulations for sensitive or chemically treated hair. Because of its gentle nature and compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients, it supports a range of functions including viscosity adjustment, ingredient solubilization, and enhancing rinse-off performance, making it a versatile staple in many professional-grade formulations.

Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GOOD
Type of Ingredient:
Texture Enhancer, Cleansing Agent, Emulsifier, Solvent and Preservative
Intended Function:
Acts as a solubilizer and emulsifier, stabilizing oil-in-water formulations and improving texture.
Common Applications:
Used in facial cleansers, creams, micellar waters, hair conditioners, scalp serums, and sprays containing oil-based actives.
Target Audience:
Ideal for brands developing products for sensitive skin, oily skin, scalp balancing, or botanical extract emulsification.
Also Known As:
Tween 80, Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate.
Safety Analysis
Polysorbate 80 is considered safe for cosmetic use by regulatory agencies such as the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) and the European Commission’s SCCS. It is generally non-irritating and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5%. However, as with all surfactants and emulsifiers, higher concentrations may increase the potential for eye or skin irritation in sensitive individuals. When used within recommended limits, Polysorbate 80 demonstrates excellent safety and biocompatibility. It is biodegradable and does not present bioaccumulation risks.
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