Polysorbate 20 is a hydrophilic, non-ionic surfactant derived from the ethoxylation of sorbitan monolaurate (a sorbitol derivative) and is commonly used in skincare and hair-care systems for its emulsification, solubilization and formulation-stabilising properties. This raw material facilitates the blending of oil-phase and water-phase components, enhances texture and spreadability, reduces surface tension of formulations and supports delivery of other actives by improving solubilisation of lipophilic ingredients. In hair-care and rinse-off systems, Polysorbate 20 functions effectively as a mild surfactant or solubilizer of fragrance oils, essential oils, and conditioning agents, contributing to better miscibility, improved aesthetics (less residue) and enhanced compatibility with aqueous systems. Because it is relatively mild and non-ionic, it is often chosen for sensitive-skin or scalp formulations where ionic surfactants might irritate or destabilise the formula.
Safety Analysis
The safety of polysorbates — including Polysorbate 20 — has been evaluated by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, which concluded that these ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating. Polysorbate 20 is reported to exhibit low irritation potential, minimal sensitisation, and no evidence of mutagenicity or carcinogenicity at use-levels typical in cosmetic formulations.

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