Lactic Acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) with the chemical formula C3H6O3, functions prominently in skincare as a gentle exfoliant that cleaves corneodesmosomes in the stratum corneum, accelerating desquamation to unveil a refined epidermal layer and mitigate hyperkeratosis. Derived through bacterial fermentation, it exhibits humectant properties by binding water molecules, thereby augmenting the skin’s natural moisturizing factor and reinforcing ceramide synthesis for enhanced barrier integrity against environmental stressors. Clinical trials reveal its capacity to stimulate collagen production, diminishing fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation via melanocyte inhibition, while its antimicrobial spectrum curbs Propionibacterium acnes proliferation in acne-prone conditions. As an antioxidant, it neutralizes free radicals, fostering even tone and resilience, particularly beneficial for sensitive profiles due to its larger molecular size that limits penetration and irritation. Its inclusion in formulations ensures stable pH, optimizing active delivery for sustained cutaneous health.
In haircare, lactic acid acts as a pH modulator, restoring acidity to the cuticle post-cleansing to compact scales and amplify reflectance for heightened luster and reduced porosity in strands. This organic acid exfoliates the scalp by dissolving sebum and debris, unclogging follicles to alleviate dandruff and promote anagen phase extension for denser growth. As a conditioner, it hydrates the cortex, enhancing elasticity to curtail breakage in chemically processed or environmentally taxed fibers, with studies noting improved tensile strength. Its antimicrobial attributes balance the scalp microbiome, mitigating inflammation and itchiness, while preventing frizz through moisture retention across diverse textures. Commonly, it stabilizes emulsions in treatments, ensuring uniform application for vibrant, manageable locks without residue accumulation.

Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GREAT
Type of Ingredient:
Hydrator, Moisturizer, Exfoliant, Microbiome Balance Agent, Tone Evener and Anti-Aging Agent
Intended Function:
Exfoliate dead cells, hydrate, and adjust pH to enhance skin renewal and hair strength.
Common Applications:
This ingredient can be used in diverse applications, including toners, serums, peels, shampoos, conditioners, and masks; lactic acid is milder and suitable for regular integration depending on the precise recipe.
Target Audience:
Lactic acid can be included in formulations that help people with dull skin; dry skin; aging skin; flaky scalps; brittle hair.
Also Known As:
2-Hydroxypropanoic acid, Milk acid, Alpha-hydroxypropionic acid.
Safety Analysis
The CIR Expert Panel deems lactic acid safe for cosmetic use at concentrations up to 10% with final pH no lower than 3.5, emphasizing formulation to mitigate sun sensitivity and advising daily sunscreen application. Extensive testing reveals low toxicity, no genotoxicity or carcinogenicity, with minimal sensitization potential, though transient stinging or erythema may occur in sensitive users at higher levels. EWG assigns a low hazard rating with use restrictions, noting rare allergic reactions but overall tolerability when patch-tested and diluted appropriately.

References
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