Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is the lipophilic (fat-soluble) ester of L-ascorbic acid and palmitic acid. Its amphipathic structure enables strong affinity for lipid phases, allowing formulators to place vitamin-C activity directly within oil phases, anhydrous systems, and the interfacial region of emulsions. In skin care, AP functions primarily as an antioxidant: it scavenges reactive oxygen species and helps limit lipid peroxidation in sebum and stratum corneum lipids, supporting barrier integrity and mitigating photo-induced stress. Compared with free L-ascorbic acid, AP is markedly more stable in the presence of water and higher pH, and it can complement tocopherols and other antioxidants to enhance overall photoprotective performance in leave-on products, sunscreens, and color cosmetics. While AP can be hydrolyzed by skin esterases to release ascorbic acid, clinical data indicate that its in-vivo conversion and pigment-evening outcomes are generally less robust than optimized L-ascorbic acid systems; accordingly, AP shines as a formula antioxidant and lipid-phase protector more than as a primary brightening active.

In hair care, AP’s value is likewise anchored in oxidative preservation—both of the formula (preventing rancidity of oils) and of hair’s surface lipids during UV and pollution exposure. By residing in oil phases, AP can be deployed in serums, hair oils, masks, and conditioners to help control free-radical damage associated with dullness, brittleness, and color fade when paired with complementary antioxidants (e.g., tocopherol) and chelators. Because AP is not a UV filter and its cutaneous conversion to free ascorbic acid is limited, it is best positioned as a supportive antioxidant for scalp and fiber care rather than as a standalone anti-aging or tone-correcting driver.