A system built around Water, Glycerin, Milk Lipids, and Ceramide NP as a Ceramide Liposome targets both immediate hydration and long-term barrier optimization. Water (Aqua) functions as the continuous phase/solvent and supports emulsion formation, ensuring uniform delivery of actives. Glycerin (glycerol) is a hygroscopic triol that binds atmospheric and intra-epidermal water, measurably improving stratum corneum hydration and accelerating barrier recovery after experimental disruption. Ceramide NP (the INCI successor to “Ceramide 3”; chemically N-acyl-phytosphingosine) is structurally analogous to endogenous ceramides that organize with cholesterol and free fatty acids into lamellar bilayers, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and restoring suppleness. Milk lipids — primarily triglycerides plus a phospholipid/sphingolipid fraction (e.g., phosphatidylcholine and sphingomyelin) and cholesterol — supply an emollient, lipid-replenishing phase that complements ceramides and can modulate barrier-related proteins in preclinical models. Together, this quartet constitutes ceramide liposomes, which supports water binding (glycerin), lipid phase repair (ceramide NP + milk lipids), and cosmetically elegant delivery (water phase emulsions).
In haircare, the same architecture translates to scalp comfort and fiber manageability. Glycerin enhances moisture retention at the fiber surface, improving flexibility when properly balanced within a formula. Ceramides interact with the cuticle’s lipid domains and have been investigated for supporting anagen signaling in dermal papilla models while helping mitigate lipid loss from surfactant exposure at the fiber surface. Milk lipids act as rich conditioners that reduce friction and improve feel thanks to their fatty acid and phospholipid composition, while water enables deposition from rinse-off systems and spreadability in leave-ons. Net effect: smoother cuticles, improved combability, and a scalp-friendly sensorial profile suitable for reparative shampoos, masks, and leave-ins.

Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GREAT
Type of Ingredient:
Hydrator, Moisturizer, Emollient, Texture Enhancer, Conditioner, Strengthener, Barrier Support and Solvent
Intended Function:
Rebuild the skin’s lipid matrix while delivering sustained hydration and a conditioned finish for both skin and hair.
Common Applications:
Daily moisturizers, barrier creams, overnight masks, soothing serums; scalp lotions, reparative shampoos, masks, and leave-in conditioners.
Target Audience:
Dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone skin; barrier-impaired or mature skin; damaged or color-treated hair; sensitive scalps.
Also Known As:
Water (Aqua), Glycerin (Glycerol/1,2,3-propanetriol), Milk Lipids (Lactis Lipida/Milk Fat/MFGM-derived lipids), Ceramide NP (Ceramide 3, N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine, non-hydroxyacyl-phytosphingosine).
Safety Analysis
Regulatory/Panel perspective. Ceramides as a class have been concluded by the Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety to be safe in current use concentrations and applications; Ceramide NP is the updated INCI corresponding to the former “Ceramide 3.”
Allergenicity considerations. “Milk lipids” are predominantly fats and polar lipids; major milk allergens are proteins (e.g., caseins, β-lactoglobulin). Cosmetic-grade lipid fractions should be highly refined with minimal residual protein; however, brands serving individuals with severe milk allergy should perform due diligence with suppliers (residual protein specifications, validated analytical methods) and consider precautionary labeling, particularly for face/leave-ons and lip care.
Irritation/phototoxicity. The system is generally well-tolerated; glycerin and ceramides are low-irritancy. As with all bio-lipid systems, patch-test final formulas on sensitive panels and monitor for occlusive acneiform responses in very oily skin types at high lipid loads.

References
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