Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is a water-soluble, phosphorylated derivative of vitamin C known for its superior stability compared to ascorbic acid. In skincare, SAP offers robust antioxidant protection, neutralizing free radicals generated by UV exposure and pollution. It also inhibits tyrosinase activity, leading to skin brightening and reduced hyperpigmentation, while stimulating collagen synthesis to enhance skin firmness and elasticity. Its gentle nature makes it particularly suitable for sensitive, acne-prone, or irritated skin types. Regular use can yield a more radiant, even-toned complexion with improved texture and resilience.
While there is limited direct evidence of SAP’s effects in haircare, its antioxidant and collagen-supporting functions could potentially benefit scalp health, particularly in protecting against oxidative stress and maintaining the integrity of follicular structures. This suggests promising opportunities for inclusion in high-performance scalp serums or leave-on hair treatments aimed at strengthening and nourishing the hair matrix.
Quick Insights
Ingredient Rating:
GREAT
Type of Ingredient:
Antioxidant, Soother, Barrier Support, Tone Evener and Anti-Aging Agent
Intended Function:
Provide stabilized vitamin C benefits to soothe and protect the skin, enhance collagen formation, reduce pigmentation, and improve barrier function.
Common Applications:
Widely incorporated into serums, creams, spot treatments, anti-aging formulas, and post-acne/recovery products (often at 0.2 – 5%). It’s particularly effective when paired with other antioxidants like vitamin E and ferulic acid for enhanced stability and performance.
Target Audience:
Formulators and brand owners crafting science-driven, gentle skincare lines — especially targeting sensitive, acne-prone, dull, or aging complexions — who seek clarified, luminous results without irritation.
Also Known As:
Frequently referred to simply as SAP or Vitamin C–phosphate derivative.
Safety Analysis
SAP is rated as non-comedogenic and suitable for sensitive and acne-prone skin, with minimal irritation reported. Cosmetic safety panels, including the CIR, affirm that ascorbic acid and its salts — including SAP — are safe at typical usage levels. Effective concentrations range from 0.2% to 5%: ~1 – 3% boosts inflammation control and breakout support, while 5% matches ascorbic acid’s wrinkle and elasticity benefits.
References
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